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Below you will find the free pattern for the Tossin’ Pennies Tunic!
Hi, its me, Emily at Crochet Aweigh! The Tossin’ Pennies Tunic is the third pattern in my first ever collection! I have several more designs planned using this fast, fun, and easy stitch combo! This pattern collection is loosely inspired by a song from Taylor Swift’s album, folklore. The song that inspired this collection is the first song on the album called “the 1”, which seemed so fitting for my very first collection! Folklore was the first Taylor Swift album that inspired me to finally bring my design ideas to life! I love The Tossin’ Pennies Tunic, and that part of the song because it stands for being hopeful and never growing too old to make a magic wish in a wishing well.

The top is perfect for an advanced beginner, or the seasoned crocheter who needs to add the perfect, flowy top to their Summer wardrobe. I am pleasantly surprised by how comfortable this top is, even on the hottest day! This tunic is customizable in length and fullness if you want to change yours up a bit! If you would like to support my very lofty yarn dreams then you can purchase a PDF of this pattern from my site, Etsy, or Ravelry.

Pattern Notes:
- This pattern is written for 0.5-3″ of positive ease, but is mainly made to measure.
- Top is worked top-down, then separated for armholes.
- Entire project is worked without turning after each row.
- Chain 3 does count as the first stitch.
- Chain 1 does NOT count as 1 stitch.
- The yoke is semi-graded for sizes. I offer number of rows on the yoke based on my gauge and how much the fabric is going to stretch, but feel free to adjust based on your measurements and gauge.
- Because we start our neck with a fsc I made that a little longer in the measurements because it is going to shrink up after the next row.
- The project does stretch quite a bit during blocking.

Yarn Selection:
Hannah from Circus Tonic Handmade in Australia reached out to me asking if I’d like to carry her yarn in my shop. I told her I wasn’t sure as my shop is currently small and at capacity for inventory so I suggested collaborating on a design and offering yarn kits with the pattern. She said that sounds great, so hopefully kits will be available soon! *fingers crossed*. She sent me some yarn that is inspired by a rainforest in Australia, and the color she sent is called “Gondwana”. Once I received the yarn I knew I would end up carrying it in store eventually because it is AMAZING! This is a merino and bamboo blend, which I have never personally worked with before. It is so luxuriously soft, and the drape is perfect for a top like this.
Materials:
- 874 – 1748 yards / 2-4 skeins of Merino Bamboo Sock from Circus Tonic Handmade – 437 yards each of 80% Superwash Merino / 20% Bamboo. 437 yards per skein. 80% Superwash Merino / 20% Bamboo Fingering Weight / #1. Sample size used approximately 1,058 yards. For reference, I wear a size L/XL and made size 5 yoke.
- US Size F5/3.75mm crochet hook
- Soft Tape Measure
- Tapestry Needle
- Scissors
- The Sayin’ Yes Dress pattern: either free on this page, or paid on my website, Etsy, or Ravelry.
Measurements:
- All measurements are in inches.
- Sizes are listed as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. Determine your size by Bust measurement (+0.5 to 3” ease).
- Only the yoke is semi-graded. Once we get past the yoke it is entirely made to measure after that.
- See charts below.


Abbreviations:
Ch – Chain
Chsp – Chain space
Fsc – Foundation single crochet
Sc – Single crochet
Dc – Double crochet
RS – Right side
St(s) – Stitch(es)
Sk – Skip
Gauge:

Gauge is 19 dc x 11 rows = 4″ x 4″ as below.
To make Swatch:
Row 1: With F hook Fsc 19. Turn.
rows 2-11: ch 2, dc in each across. Turn.

Pattern: Yoke
I have suggested row counts for each size, and this top grows during blocking. However if you reach the recommended row for the end of your size yoke, and you can’t reach the yoke measurement after stretching, continue on until you can reach it with stretching.
Rnd 1: Fsc length B indicated in chart. Make sure your st count is divisible by 3, plus 1 extra st. Being careful not to turn, sl st to 1st to form ring.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as Dc here and throughout), dc in each st around. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in same, ch 4, sk 3, *sc in between next 2 dc, ch 4, sk 3. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnds 4-5: Sl st into next chsp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 4, *sc in next chsp, ch 4. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 6: Ch 3, 4dc in each ch sp around. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 4, sk 3, *sc in between next dcs, ch 4, sk 3. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1 sc. You will probably not end with 3 sts left to sk. If you have 1 st, then sk 4 and if you have 2 sts, then treat them as if they are 3 sts.
Rnds 8-9: Sl st into chsp, ch 1, sc in same, *sc in next chsp, ch 4. Repeat around. Sl st into 1st sc.
Rnd 10: Ch 3, 5dc into each chsp around. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc in between next dc’s, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc. Similar to rnd 7, make an adjustment if you do not end with 4 sts to skip.
Rnds 12-13: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 14: Ch 3, 5dc in each chsp across. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 15: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc in between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat from * Around. You may have to adjust on the very last skipped sts.
Rnds 16-17: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 18: Ch 3, 5dc into each chsp around. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc in between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc. May need to adjust number of skipped sts at the end.
Rnds 20-21: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat around. Sl st to 1st sc.
For size 1 only, fasten off and wet block to yoke measurement in the chart. Continue to separating for armholes.
For all other sizes continue on.
Rnd 22: Ch 3, 5dc in each chsp around. Sl st to begch3.
For size 2 & 3 only, fasten off and wet block to the yoke measurement in the chart. Continue to separating for armholes. For all other sizes, continue on.
Rnd 23: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc in between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnds 24-25: Sl st into next chsp, ch 1, sc in same sp, Ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat around. Sl st to 1st sc.
For sizes 4 & 5 only, fasten off and wet block to the yoke measurement in the chart. Continue to separating for armholes. For all other sizes continue on.
Rnd 26: Ch 3, 5dc in each chsp around. Sl st to begch3.
For size 6 only, fasten off and wet block to the yoke measurement in the chart. Continue to separating for armholes. For all other sizes continue on.
Rnd 27: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc in between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat around.
Rnds 28-29: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, Ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat around.
For size 7 & 8, fasten off and wet block to yoke measurements in chart. Continue onto separating for armholes.
For size 9 & 10, Repeat rows 26-29 once more. Fasten off and wet block to yoke measurements in chart. Continue to separating for armholes.
Separating for Armholes:


Sizes 1, 4, 5, 7, & 8 only
Count how many chsps you have. I have 94 chsps for my size. Divide your number by 4. I had 23.5. If you have a half number like me, add 1.5 to get the number of chsps for your armholes and front. I will have 25 chsps for my sleeves and 25 for the front of my top. If you have a whole number then you only need to add 1. Your remaining chsps will be for the back of the top. I had 19 for my back. Place your markers in the chsps you calculated. See Diagram on next page if you are unsure of placement.
Sizes 2, 3, 6, 9, 10 only
Count how many stitches you have total and divide by 4. Add 10. This is how many stitches you will have for your armholes and your front section. Remaining sts will be for the back section. Example. 376 total dc / 4 = 94. Add 8 = 102 sts. 104 for each arm and for the front leaves 70 sts across the back.
Body: Sizes 1, 4, 5, 7, & 8 only
With RS facing, attach yarn to sc to the right of the right side front st marker.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 4 dc into each sp until next marker. 4dc in same sp as marker. Ch 6 and sk to next marked sp, 4dc in marked sp and in each chsp across. 4dc in marked sp, ch 5, sk all remaining chsps and sl st to begch3.
Optional underarm shaping: Try on your top and make sure it fits comfortably under the arms. If it is snug then redo first round with 11 chs under first armhole and 10 chs under 2nd armhole.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 5, sk 4 *sc in between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat across the front until underarm. (Sc in ch, ch 5, sk 4 ch, sc in next ch) repeat () once more if you did the optional underarm shaping. Ch 5, sk 4 dc, *sc in between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat across to next underarm. (Sc in ch, ch 5, sk 4), Repeat () once if you did the optional underarm shaping. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnds 3-4: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, Ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 5: Ch 3, 4 dc in each chsp around. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnds 7-8: Repeat Rnd 3.
Continue repeating Rounds 5-8 until you reach your natural waist. Then continue onto increase section.
Body: Sizes 2, 3, 6, 9, 10 only
With RS facing, attach yarn to dc to the right of the right side front st marker.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc in between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat from * across to next marked st. Sc in marked st, ch 6, sk all dcs to next marker, sc in next marked st, ch 5, sk 4 **sc in between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat from ** across to next maker. Sc in next marker. Ch 5, sl st to 1st sc.
Optional underarm shaping: Try on your top and make sure it fits comfortably under the arms. If it is snug then redo first round with 11 chs under first armhole and 10 chs under 2nd armhole.
Rnd 2: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc in next sp, ch 5. Repeat from * around to marker. (Sc in ch after marker, ch 5, sk 4 chs, sc in next ch), Repeat () once if you did optional underarm shaping. Ch 5, sk 4 dc, **sc in between next sp, ch 5. Repeat from ** across to next marker. (Sc in ch, ch 5, sk 4). Repeat () once if you did optional underarm shaping. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 3: Sl st into 1st ch sp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, 4 dc in each chsp around. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnds 6-7: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Continue repeating Rounds 4-7 until you reach your natural waist. Go onto increase section.
Increase Section for All Sizes
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 5dc in each chsp around.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 5, sk 4, *sc between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat from * across. Sl st to 1st sc. *you may have to adjust how many sts you skip at the end as we did before.
Rnds 3 & 4: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Repeat rounds 1-4 until you reach your desired length, ending with a round 1 & fasten off. OR if you reach your desired fullness before it is long enough, move onto round 5. Ex. I did rounds 1-4 for a total of 5 times and then moved onto round 5 to finish my length.
Finishing Tunic Length:
Round 5: Ch 3, 4dc in each chsp around. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in 1st, ch 5, sk 4, *sc between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnds 7-8: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Repeat rounds 5-8 until you reach your desired tunic length. End with a round 5.
Sleeves: Sizes 1, 4, 5, 7, & 8 only
With RS facing, join with a sl st to chsp at the underarm.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 5dc into same sp, working only into the unused spaces on the yoke, 5dc into each ch2p around. Sl st to begch3.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4, *sc between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat around. You may have to make an adjustment at the end of the row as we have before.
Rnds 3 & 4: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 5: Ch 3, 5dc into each chsp around. Sl st to begch3. Fasten off. Or repeat rounds 2-5 until you reach desired length.

Sleeves: Sizes 2, 3, 6, 9, 10 only
With RS facing, join with a sl st to chsp at the underarm.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 5, sk first 4 dc, *sc between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat around until reaching the chsp you started in. Sc in that sp, ch 5, sl st to 1st sc.
Rnds 2-3: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 4: Ch 3, 5dc into each chsp around. Sl st to begch3. Fasten off. Or if you want the sleeves to be longer, continue onto round 5.
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, sk 4 dc, *sc between next dcs, ch 5, sk 4. Repeat around, sl st to 1st sc.
Rnds 6-7: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 1, sc in same, ch 5, *sc in next chsp, ch 5. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st sc.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, 5dc into each chsp around. Sl st to begch3.
Repeat rows 5-8 until desired length. Fasten off.


Now your tunic is done! I hope you enjoyed making this top! Comment below if you have any questions, and if you make this top, please post it on social media and tag me so I can see! Use the hashtag #TossinPenniesTunic. I love seeing your creations!
