A Free Crochet Pattern Guide: The Fearless Wedding Dress

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This dress is part of series and my challenge for the year: one wedding dress per month! Not just any wedding dresses, but let’s make them Taylor Swift themed dresses! Taylor has 12 albums now, there’s 12 months in a year, so it will work out perfectly! Follow along on this Taylor Swift themed crocheted wedding dress year-long challenge!

The second wedding dress design of the year, the Fearless Wedding Dress, is finally ready! Better late than never, right? I did finish the Fearless dress on February 28th, but an eye ulcer prevented me from taking photos for a few weeks. I took all these photos without my contacts in so I couldn’t see a thing!

Taylor’s second album is called “Fearless”. It was during this time that I discovered Taylor for myself while at a school function where a different school group did a cover of “Love Story”, and I was blown away by the incredible story-telling ability shown in the song. I leaned to a friend and asked who wrote the song. She looked at my like, “man this girl must be living under a rock
“, (which I was), and said “it’s Taylor Swift of course”. I got home from that school trip and went straight to YouTube, which was also a new discovery for me; embarrassing, I know! I looked up her music and was immediately addicted.

Fearless was originally released in 2008, and it really put TSwift on the map. This is a country-pop album that has themes of teenage longing, fairytale romance, and heartbreak through a coming-of-age lens. Her main hits were “Love Story”, “You Belong with me”, and “Forever and Always”.

To the right, you will find my sketch of how I was originally envisioning this dress.

For the Fearless dress I wanted to lean into the “Love Story”aesthetic and go with something very Romeo-Juliette/Renaissance era. The first decision was to make the dress in a champagne color. I decided to go with vertical panels for the skirt that would be perfect for twirling. I found a stitch that reminds me of a rising sun, which is very Fearless-coded.

We needed a shimmer-y bodice, and some pleats across the top. I went with a square neckline to keep with the Renaissance look, and of course a lace up corset back.

Originally I was thinking full length ballon sleeves, but I did end up changing that towards the end and have no regrets.

I found a wedding dress designer on Pinterest called Kim Kassas, and her dresses really spoke to me! On the right is an image of a dress that I fell in love with, and decided to let it inspire the bodice on the Fearless Dress.

After the initial sketch I went on to source all other materials and get to work! I started this dress on February 1st and finished it on February 28th.

Below you will find the free pattern guide for the Fearless Wedding Dress!

If you would like to support my very lofty yarn dreams then you can purchase a PDF of this pattern from my site, or Ravelry.

Pattern Notes:

• This is a pattern guide, rather than a regular pattern.
• This pattern guide is made to measure. Any increases and decreases listed in this pattern are how I did mine to fit me. You will need to make your own adjustments.
• Because of how custom this is, this pattern guide is for an advanced level crocheter.
• You can use a separate corset and underskirt, or find a dress that has a corset style top.
• Ch 2 does Not count as a DC
• Measure the corset ON your body. I cannot stress this enough. The corset will stretch to you so if you don’t measure with it on, then your crochet fabric will be way too small.
• The skirt is made in panels which are then crocheted together.
• once the skirt is complete, attach at the waist and work your way up. Sew to corset.
• After the mid section the pleats are crocheted separately and sewn on.
• The straps and sleeves are added, and then the hem of the skirt is last.
• If you have an adjustable dress form, this will help you create a finished piece that fits really well.
• It is much easier to place a bead onto a single crochet on the wrong side, which is why the beads are all written as when you are working with the wrong side facing. The beads will be on the right side out.
• A Blocking mat is especially useful for this pattern. It will help you get all the skirt panels blocked to exactly the same size.

If your corset has these little hooks down the front middle, use pliers to squeeze them tight. We don’t want those coming undone!

Materials:

• Main yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Size 3 Crochet Thread or fingering #1 weight cotton – Sample used approx. 3600 yards in the color Natural.
• Accent yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Metallic Size 10 Crochet Thread – Sample used approx. 450 yards in color Natural/Gold
• Optional: Go Handmade Glitter Deluxe Thread from Hobbii
• Optional: different yarn for sleeves – I used Aerial from Berroco, a fuzzy Mohair blend, approx. 1 skein per sleeve, 284 yards per skein
• A Corset. I chose one with a lace up back and a square neckline in a beige color.
• An underskirt of some kind – I used this one from Amazon.
• Crochet hooks: use whatever works for your desired gauge (additional notes below).
• US size F/3.75mm hook – for the skirt panels & main bodice
• US Size B/2.25mm hook – for attaching the skirt panels and for the bodice pleats
• US Size H/5.00mm hook – for the sleeves
• Stitch Markers
• Metal Tapestry Needle – must be metal, plastic will not work here.
• Size 6 or 8 seed beads: I used these from Hobby Lobby
• Optional: Pearl beads – I used these from Hobby Lobby
• Optional: Pendant – I used these flower clusters & pearls pendant from Hobby Lobby
• Optional: Elastic jewelry thread
• Optional: Blocking Mat – not necessary, but very helpful!
• Optional: Adjustable Dress Form – not necessary, but very helpful!
• Sewing pins
• Scissors
• The Fearless Wedding Dress Pattern Guide: either free on this page, or paid on my website, or Ravelry.

Abbreviations:

Special Stitches:

TrCL = Treble Crochet Cluster: YO twice, insert hook into the indicated st, pull up a loop. (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, YO twice, insert hook into next st and pull up a loop, (YO, pull through 2 loops) twice, YO, pull through all 3 remaining loops.

Gauge:

Gauge is not important for this pattern. Use whatever hook and yarn you like.

Chart for Skirt Panels:

Pattern Instructions:

Skirt Panels:

Ch 32.

R1: Dc in 3rd ch from hook, (ch 2, sk 2, dc in next) 3 times, ch 3, sk 3, dc in each of next 4, ch 3, sk 3, dc in next, (ch 2, sk 2, dc in next) 3 times. Turn.

R2: Ch 2, dc in 1st, ch 2, sk 1st ch2sp, dc in next ch2sp, Ch 2, dc in next ch2sp, ch 4, sk ch3sp, dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc, ch 1, 2dc in next dc, dc in next dc, ch 4, sk ch3sp, (dc in next ch2sp, ch 2) twice, dc in last dc. Turn.

R3: Ch 2, dc in 1st, ch 2, sk 1st ch2sp, dc in next ch2sp, ch 4, sk ch4sp, dc in next 3 dcs, ch 5, Tr in ch1sp, ch 5, dc in next 3 dcs, ch 4, sk ch4sp, dc in next ch2sp, ch 2, dc in last. Turn.

R4: Ch 2, dc in 1st, ch 4, sk ch2sp and ch4sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, sc in ch5sp, ch 5, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, sk ch4sp and ch2sp, dc in last. Turn.

R5: Ch 2, dc in 1st, ch 2, sk ch4sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sk ch3sp, 16dc into ch5sp, ch 2, sk ch3sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sk ch4sp, dc in last. Turn.

R6: Ch 2, dc in 1st, sk ch2sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sk ch2sp, (TrCl, ch 3) 7 times, TrCl over next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in next 3 dc, sk ch2sp, dc in last, Turn.

R7: Ch 2, dc in 1st, dc3tog over next 3 dcs, Dc4tog over next two chsps (see photo for placement), (ch 3, Dc4tog in same chsp, and in next) 7 times, dc3tog over next 3dc, dc in last. Turn.

R8: Ch 2, dc in 1st, (ch 2, dc in next chsp) 3 times, ch 3, 4dc in next chsp, ch 3, (dc in next chsp, ch 2) 3 times, dc in last st. Turn.

Repeat rows 2-8 until you reach your desired skirt length minus the hem. I ended up with 10 pattern repeats total. Do not fasten off and move on to panel border.

Panel Border:

After you are happy with the length do not fasten off. Turn 90 degrees to continue along the panel edge.

R1: Ch 1, place 2 sc in each dc row end until you reach the other end, place 3sc in last st to turn 90 degrees. Working along the starting chain, sc in each ch to last, 3sc in last to turn 90 degrees. Working along the other side edge, place 2 sc in each dc row end until the end. Ch 3 (counts as a Tr here and throughout), 2Tr in 1st dc, Tr in dc3tog, dc in dc4tog, sc in next chsp, *sc in next dc4tog, 2sc in next chsp. Repeat from * across to last chsp. Place only 1 sc in last chsp, dc in last dc4tog, Tr in dc3tog, 2Tr in last dc, Tr in the side of the first sc from this round. Fasten off.

Block your first panel before moving on!

Block 1 panel because it tends to stretch width-wide and get shorter so check this before continuing.

My panel measured 6″wide x 40″long.

Deciding how many skirt panels are needed for your desired fullness:

Measure around your natural waist, or wherever you want the top of your skirt to sit. I had 37.5″.

For a slim/tight fitting dress: divide your waist measurement by the width of your panel. Example: 37.5 / 6″ = 6.25 panels. You can choose to round up or down depending on how tight you want the dress to be. Keep in mind there will be an additional border around each panel. Personally I would round up to 7 panels to account for my hips being larger than my waist.

For a slightly loose dress: multiply your waist measurement by 1.5. Example: 37.5 x 1.5 = 56.25″. Then divide that number by your panel width. 56.25″ / 6″ = 9.375 total panels (round it up or down to a whole number)

For standard fullness: Multiply your waist measurement by 2. Example: 37.5 x 2 = 75″. Then divide that number by your panel width. 75″ / 6″ = 12.5 panels (round it up or down to a whole number)

For an extra full/twirl-worthy skirt: Multiply your waist measurement by 2.5. Example: 37.5 x 2.5 = 93.75″. Then divide that number by your panel width. 93.75″ / 6″ = 15.625 panels (round it up or down to a whole number)

You can use this same formula to make the skirt more or less full depending on your preference.

I went with Standard fullness and rounded down to 12 panels.

Crochet your other panels and block them.

Assembling the Skirt Panels:

Lay one panel out and measure the length. I had 40″. Divide your length by 3 and place stitch markers on either side at that increment. It doesn’t have to be exact, just get it close. My increment was 13.3″, yours will probably be different than mine depending on how tall you are. Switch to B hook and size 10 sparkly thread.

First Panel Only:

With RS facing, attach with a sc to the side of the TR of the previous border row.

Ch 3, sc in the side of the Tr again, ch 3, sc in 1st sc of previous border row, (ch 3, sk 1, sc in next) to 1st marker. Once you reach the first marker, (ch 4, sk 1, sc in next) until 2nd marker, Once you reach the 2nd marker, (ch 5, sk 1, sc in next) until the corner. Place 3sc in turning st. Sc in each st across the bottom.

3sc in turning st, (ch 5, sk 1, sc in next) until 3rd marker, Once you reach 3rd marker, (ch 4, sk 1, sc in next) until 4th marker. Once you reach 4th marker, (ch 3, sk 1, sc in next) to end. Fasten off.

By increasing the number of chains as you go down the panel, this will increase how “twirly” the skirt will be and make the skirt wider towards the bottom. If you don’t want this then do ch3sps all the way down.

All “in between” Skirt Panel borders:

-This excludes the very last panel

Repeat the measuring and stitch marker placement from panel 1. We still want 3 even sections.

With RS facing, attach with a sc to the side of the Tr of the previous border row. Ch 3, sc in the side of the Tr again, ch 3, sc in 1st sc of previous border row, (ch 3, sk 1, sc in next) to 1st marker. Once you reach the first marker, (ch 4, sk 1, sc in next) until 2nd marker, Once you reach the 2nd marker, (ch 5, sk 1, sc in next) until the corner. Place 3sc in turning st. Sc in each st across the bottom. Place 3sc in turning st, turn to go up the 2nd side.

Grab your previous panel and line it up with your current one so we can crochet back and forth into both panels – you will work back and forth on both panels to connect them.

Going up the 2nd side:

Ch 2, sc to 1st ch5sp on previous panel. ch 2, sk 1 st on current panel, sc in next. (Ch 2, sc in next ch5sp on previous panel, ch 2, sk 1 st on current panel, sc in next) repeat until next marker.

Once you reach the next marker, (ch 2, sc in next ch4sp on previous panel, ch 1, sk 1 st on current panel, sc in next) repeat until next marker.

Once you reach the next marker, (ch 1, sc in next ch3sp on previous panel, ch 1, sk 1 st on current panel, sc in next) repeat until the last chsp. Sc in last sc on current panel. Fasten off & weave in ends.

The Last Panel: this panel is done in the same fashion, except you are now connecting down both sides.

Attach with a sc to the top of the final panel, ch 1, sc in 1st ch3sp on previous panel, ch 1, sc in next sc on current panel and so on, increasing 1 chain at each marker. Sc across the bottom edge, connect in the same manner to your first panel. Fasten off & weave in ends.

Bodice:

Working along the top edge of the skirt: We are going to do some decreases before getting into the beaded section. Use the size 3 thread and glitter thread if desired.

R1: We want to even out the top edge before decreasing. Attach with a sc and Size 3 crochet thread, glitter thread, and F hook to any of the sc in the middle of the “sun”. This will be different for everyone. I did some sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, then several Tr over the lowest section between the panels, placed 1 Tr in each of the ch3sps of the panel join, a few more Tr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, and sc across the top of the sun. Do this all the way around. Sl st to 1st sc. See photo, but yours may vary. We just want to even the top border out so the skirt hangs correctly.

R2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around and sc2tog over every st that isn’t a sc. Again, this doesn’t have to be exact. This will decrease in between the “suns” only for this round. Sl st to 1st.

R3-4: Ch 1, *sc in 5 sts, sc2tog over next 2. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st.

R5: Ch 1, sc in each around. Sl st to 1st.

How to calculate the final decrease row: Count how many sts you have. I had 171. Measure across the top of the skirt to see its diameter. I had 25″ Measure around your waist or wherever the top of the skirt is going to sit. My waist is 37.5. Divide waist measurement by 2. Mine came out to 18.75″. Take skirt diameter minus your divided waist measurement. Example: 25″-18.75″ = 6.25″ needs to be decreased from the current skirt circumference. Measure that on your skirt and count how many stitches is in that measurement. I had 23 sts in my 6.25″. Now divide your total stitch count by your number of stitched. 171 sts / 23 = 7.4. Round up or down depending on preference. This means I will do 8 sc and then 1 sc2tog repeating on my next row to get my desired size. Please adjust accordingly for your size. You may even want to decrease again depending on how full you made your skirt. This is how mine looked:

R6: Ch 1, *sc in 8, sc2tog over next 2. Repeat from * around. Sl st to 1st. Turn.

Try on your corset or underdress and measure the space between the ties. Mine was 6″. Measure back that amount from where you are attached and place a marker.

R7: WS – Ch 1, PB on 1st sc, *sc in next 9, PB on next sc. Repeat from * to marker. Turn.

R8: Ch 1, sc in each. Turn.

R9: WS – Ch 1, sc in 1st st, *PB on next sc, sc in next 7, PB on next sc, sc in next. Repeat from * across. Turn. NOTE: make sure you are still placing the beads on the RS of the work.

R10: RS – Ch 1, sc in each across. Turn.

R18: Ch 1, sc in each across. Turn

R19: sc in 1st 2, *PB on next sc, sc in next 7, sc in next, PB in next st. Repeat from * across. Turn.

R20: Ch 1, sc in each across. Turn

R21: Ch 1, sc in 1st 2, *PB on next sc, sc in next 3, PB on next sc, sc in next 5. Repeat from * around.

R22: Ch 1, sc in each across. Turn.

R23: Ch 1, sc in 1st *PB on next sc, sc in next 5, PB on next sc, sc in next 3. Repeat from * across. Turn.

R24: Ch 1, sc in each across. Turn.

R25: Ch 1, PB on 1st st, *sc in 7, Pb on next sc, sc in next, PB on next sc. Repeat from * across. Turn.

R26: Ch 1, sc in each across. Turn.

R27: Ch 1, *sc in 9 sts, PB on next sc. Repeat from * across. Turn.

R28: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.

Repeat this criss-cross beaded pattern until you are happy with the height of the bodice fabric. End where you want the edge of the pleats to meet this fabric. End after a RS row.

After you are satisfied with the bodice length, turn 90 degrees to work along the back edge. Place 1 sc in each row end down the first side of the bodice, 1sc in each st across the back waist, 1sc in each row end back up the other edge of the bodice. Either fasten off if you are happy with the fit, or do another row or 2 if your dress feels small. When fastening off, leave a tail for sewing.

Use the metal tapestry needle to stitch the edge of the bodice to the corset. Stitch both sides along the back edge by the ties.

Try on your dress. Use a pencil to draw a line across the top of where your bodice sits now (indicated by the arrow). Take the dress off. Use your tapestry needle to stitch your bodice work along that edge to the corset.

Bodice Pleats:

This will be very unique to the shape of your corset. I wanted to shape my pleats to the curve of the underarm area so I started by doing on center pleat that ran from the outer edge of the right strap to the outer edge of the left strap. Then I made 2 smaller pleats that matched the curve of the back side of the straps. Then I connected the 2 mini pleats and the main pleat.

Using size 10 thread and 2.25mm hook, chain a length that spans the center of your corset plus 2 chains. Your shaping will vary based on your corset. Do your best to match these pleats to the top edge of your corset.

R1: 2dc in 3rd ch from the hook, dc in each ch across to last, 2dc in last ch. Turn.

R2-3: Ch 2, 2dc in 1st st, dc in each across to last, 2dc in last st. Turn.

R4: Ch 1, 2Fpdc around 1st, fpdc around each st to last, 2fpdc around last st. Turn.

R5-6: Ch 2, 2dc in 1st, dc in each across to last, 2dc in last st. Fasten off.

I had to do a little extra pleat by itself on either side of the back due to the shape of my corset. I did it the same way as the middle one, just much shorter.

R7: To connect them I fastened all of them off and pinned them where they go. Then I chained a length from the back corner to the first mini pleat, then unpinned it and Bpdc around each post of the mini pleat. Repin and chain a length under the arm to where your middle pleat starts. Unpin the middle piece and Bpdc across to the other end. Chain the same amount as what you did under the 1st arm, bpdc around each st of your other mini pleat, chain same amount as you did before the first mini pleat. Turn.

R8-9: Ch 2, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each ch and in each dc across. Turn.

R10: Ch 1, fpdc in each st across. Turn.

R11-12: Ch 2, dc in each st across. Turn. This is where I fastened off as my pleats were long enough to cover the top section of my corset up to the beading. You can continue on in this fashion if need be.

Sewing the pleats onto the corset:

I used sewings pins to pin my work in place. I started in the middle and worked my way around. I used a metal tapestry needle and whip stitched it around.

Use the tapestry needle to stitch the pleats across the middle first, where the bracket is. This is easier than working all the way across. Then work the left and right side.

Finally whip stitch the bottom of the pleats to the top row of the bodice.

Straps:

Again the shaping will vary based on your corset.

Using the Size 3 thread and the glitter thread and F hook:

R1: Attach with sl st to foundation chain of the pleat at the edge of the strap. Ch 2, dc in each ch to the other side of the strap. Turn.

R2: Ch 2, dc2tog over 1st st, dc across to last 2, dc2tog over last 2. Turn.

R3: Repeat row 2.

R4: Ch 1, dc in each across. Turn.

Repeat row 4 until you get to the back side of your strap where you may need to increase a little to match the shape of the strap. If you do not need to increase to match the corset strap, repeat row 4 until your crochet strap is long enough, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

OR

Last row (increase to match strap): Ch 2, 2dc in 1st, dc across to last, 2dc in last. Fasten off & leave a long tail for sewing

Attach to RS and sc along the inside edge of the strap for a neater finish. Do this BEFORE you sew the strap down to make it easier.

Sew the Straps Down:

Then using the metal tapestry needle and your long tail from R4 to stitch the strap to the top of the back pleat, and along the inside edge of the strap to the edge of the corset.

Sleeves:

R1: With Size 3 thread, glitter thread and F hook, Attach anywhere along the outer edge of the strap. Place 2 sc in each dc row end around the strap, sc evenly across the underarm working into the top edge of the pleat. Sl st to 1st sc. Count how many sc you have and make a note of it for when you start the 2nd sleeve. If using a different yarn for the main sleeves, fasten off and weave in ends. If you are not changing yarn then continue on with R2.

I used a Mohair blend and the glitter thread for my sleeves so I went up to an H hook for a light and airy look. You can use whichever yarn and hook you want for the sleeves. Feel free to adjust your increases, change the sleeve length, or add decreases at the end to give a balloon sleeve look.

R2: Attach in the center of the underarm with a sl st. Ch 2, dc in each around. Sl st to 1st.

R3: Ch 2, 2dc in 1st, (dc in next 3, 2dc in next) around. Sl st to 1st.

R4: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st to 1st.

R5: Ch 2, 2dc in 1st, (dc in next 4, 2dc in next) around. Sl st to 1st.

R6-25: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Sl st to 1st.

Fasten off & weave in ends.

Hem:

Try on your dress with the shoes you intend to wear. Have someone measure from the current edge of the skirt to the floor. I recommend doing 1-2″ less to account for the fabric stretching the day of. Keep your desired measurement in mind as we do the hem.

R1: With size 10 thread and 2.25mm hook, attach with sl st to any ch3sp of panel join. Ch 4 (counts as dc ch 1 here and throughout), dc in same ch3sp, Vst in next ch3sp of panel join, *sk next sc, (Vst in next sc, sk 1)across the bottom of the panel, Vst in each of the ch3sps of panel join Repeat from * around. Sl st to 3rd ch of begch4.

R2: Sl st into 1st chsp, ch 4, dc in same, Vst in each Vst around. Sl st to 3rd ch of begch4.

Repeat row 2 until desired length. Fasten off & weave in ends.

Enjoy your new Fearless Wedding Dress!

I hope you love your new Fearless Wedding Dress! Comment below if you have any questions, and what you think of this Fearless look!